It’s like a dream. Once the proverbial spark was lit, Amfitheatrof fanned the flames with a foundational art course at the Chelsea College of Arts, where she studied a broad mix of subjects: painting, sculpture, textiles, printmaking, fashion, 3-D design, industrial design, and graphic design. “It was a sort of Twombly mark.” More than two decades on, Amfitheatrof says the art school episode still resonates with her. “I already wanted to work at Tiffany. That’s why John’s job is not a job. Now she’s focusing on keeping Tiffany & Co. modern without losing its timeless appeal. The way my character is—I take on things in a very big way. I’d say there’s a lightness to my jewellery, and there’s something that maybe is a little bit Oriental, like when you look at beautiful Korean pots, or when you look at [artifacts by] the Japanese: the purity of a form. “It’s not the classical mould.” And that’s precisely the point. You’re a bit useless. “For any young jeweller, she is the ultimate designer. “But not everyone can create magic. I’m less of a decorative jeweller. From there, Amfitheatrof did something unexpected (unless you know her, in which case it was entirely expected): she designed an eyewear collection for Marni.“It’s quite strange to know what you want to do that young,” she says. Francesca Amfitheatrof was the design director of Tiffany & Co., responsible for translating a legacy of legendary style into designs that look to the future while honoring Tiffany’s history of … The same can be said of Amfitheatrof’s favorite piece in her Tiffany T line.
Even when I design, I don’t design one piece of jewellery, I design massive collections. “Exercises that try to get rid of any weight on your shoulders of what is expected of you—I think they’re great,” she says.
I’m very much into proportions and the feeling of a piece on your skin. She focused on iconic collections from artists who came before her. When it came time to narrow things down, her unequivocal choice was jewellery.“John was a magician,” says Judith Price, president of the National Jewelry Institute and a long time acquaintance of Loring’s. Indeed, The New York Times called Tiffany T a “Brooklynized take on fine jewelry.” The pieces are meant to be paired as easily with a ball gown as with a pair of jeans and a crisp white shirt.Tiffany & Co.’s new design director, Francesca Amfitheatrof, launches Tiffany T, her first collection for the iconic brand. The attraction towards Tiffany was linked very much with her and her designs.”But make no mistake: Amfitheatrof’s stamp on Tiffany T, like that “Twombly mark” she made back in grad school, is very much her own. Tiffany Design Director Francesca Amfitheatrof brings a modern touch to the beloved brand. She was there a year later when the house split, and stayed on for an additional year as head designer for Garrard. At Tiffany, we carry forward that spirit.”“‘T’ pays homage to the Tiffany name, but it also has a verticality and angularity that I associate with the energy and intensity of New York. The show was more than just a successful marketing vehicle, however: it affirmed the pure, modernist style Amfitheatrof had been cultivating since art school.The seven years of art training that followed—beginning with a BA in jewellery design at London’s Central Saint Martins and concluding at the Royal College of Art—left Amfitheatrof with the conviction that her riches would not lie in the niches.
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